To make a box 2

Having carried out a dry fit to make sure the dovetail joints are acceptable the next stage is to form the holes for the drawer fronts. A router jig is made to do this ensuring both holes are the same size.

cutting out holes for drawers

The corners are made square with a chisel. The holes at the top of the front were where the jig was screwed down. These will be removed after glue up.

Another jig was made to shape the curved sides. This was done on a router table where the router is fixed underneath the bed of the machine and the work piece moves rather than a normal router which is hand held and the work piece is stationary.

cutting the curved sides

Once the curve is cut on the sides the curve can be used as a guide for cutting the groove to house the curved top. An  auxiliary fence was made with a curve which matches the curve on the side to cut the groove.

Now that the groove in the side is cut I reassemble the box and mark the position of the groove for the top in the front and back pieces.

Time to carve the P and S logo.

The curved top is made by gluing the burr walnut veneer and the inside top walnut veneer on a piece of bendy ply which is placed on a  curved former in a vacuum press. The former is made up of 50mm mdf pieces glued and screwed together.

Here the lid panel is in the vacuum bag waiting for the glue to cure. The air is sucked out of the bag so that atmospheric pressure pushes the top onto the former.

One of the nerve racking stages of the box build is when it is glued up!

box glue up
using a rasp to file down dovetails

After glue the tails and pins (which protrude 0.5mm) are worked back to the face. A start is made with a course file.